The Serpentine, winding elegantly through Hyde Park and Kensington Gardens, is a landmark of Georgian ingenuity and urban landscape design. Though it appears entirely natural, this lake is a constructed feature, born from Queen Caroline’s ambitious plans in the early 18th century to modernise and beautify one of London’s great royal parks. 📢Listen Now: Episode 87: An Introduction to Georgian London
A Royal Vision
In 1730, Queen Caroline of Ansbach, consort of George II, oversaw a major transformation of Hyde Park. She championed the reshaping of the existing Westbourne Stream into a sweeping lake with gentle, irregular curves.
This was a deliberate break from the formality of earlier water features, reflecting the rising popularity of the English landscape garden movement. The Serpentine was one of the first man-made lakes in England to take on this more naturalistic shape.Charles Withers, Surveyor-General of Woods and Forests, directed the work.
The project was both aesthetic and functional. Not only did the lake offer a picturesque centrepiece for promenading, but it also improved drainage and sanitation in what was a low-lying, often marshy part of the park.
Engineering and Innovation
The Serpentine’s design heralded a new era in landscape architecture. Rather than the regimented, formal designs seen at Versailles or Hampton Court, this new fashion favoured organic shapes and the illusion of untamed nature. The lake helped set the tone for other prominent works in this vein, influencing designers such as William Kent and Lancelot ‘Capability’ Brown.
The Westbourne Stream was dammed at the eastern end to create the body of water, and for many years it remained a vital water source. Today, the Serpentine is fed by boreholes drawing from the upper chalk aquifer beneath London.
The Serpentine Bridge and Its Architect
At the western end of the Serpentine stands the Serpentine Bridge, a graceful five-arch structure completed in 1826. It was designed by John Rennie, a renowned Scottish civil engineer who played a pivotal role in the development of Britain’s canals, harbours, and bridges.
💡Did you know?
John Rennie also designed the Georgian London Bridge completed in 1831, which stood until it was dismantled in 1967. That very bridge was sold and relocated to Lake Havasu City, Arizona, where it remains a major tourist attraction. Many Londoners at the time thought the Americans believed they were buying Tower Bridge — a persistent myth, though charming.
The Serpentine Bridge marks the dividing line between Hyde Park’s Serpentine and the Long Water of Kensington Gardens. While the whole stretch is commonly referred to as the Serpentine, technically, only the eastern part bears that name.
A Stage for Celebration and Protest
The Serpentine and its surroundings have played host to a number of significant public events and cultural moments:
- The Great Exhibition of 1851, though centred in nearby Hyde Park’s Crystal Palace, drew visitors to the Serpentine for boating and leisure during the six-month celebration of industry and art.
- VE Day (Victory in Europe Day) 1945 saw Londoners gather in their thousands throughout Hyde Park, with many spilling towards the Serpentine to celebrate the end of the Second World War in Europe. The lake and its bridge served as a backdrop to scenes of jubilation.
- Live 8 (2005): A major benefit concert organised by Bob Geldof and held in Hyde Park to coincide with the G8 summit. While the main stage was elsewhere in the park, the Serpentine provided a tranquil contrast to the vibrant energy of the crowd. I know ‘cos I was there!
- London 2012 Olympic Games: The Serpentine became a global stage during the London Olympics, hosting the swimming leg of the triathlon and the open-water marathon swim events. Temporary stands were erected on the north side, turning the lake into a sporting arena.
- Protests and public gatherings: Hyde Park’s tradition as a site of assembly is long-standing, and the Serpentine has often been near the heart of it. From suffrage demonstrations to modern environmental protests, the lake has stood quietly by as voices have risen around it.
The Serpentine Today
A view of the Serpentine Lake, Photo by Hazel Baker
Today, the Serpentine is a treasured part of Hyde Park life. Boating remains popular, with pedalos and rowboats available during the warmer months. The Serpentine Lido is open to the public during summer, offering Londoners the rare treat of open-water swimming in the heart of the city.
The Serpentine Swimming Club, founded in 1864, is still active. Its Christmas Day Race — a tradition since 1864 — sees members dive into the cold waters in a test of endurance and festive bravado.
On the cultural front, the Serpentine lends its name to the Serpentine Galleries (South and North), among London’s leading venues for contemporary art. Each summer, the Serpentine Pavilion programme invites an international architect to design a temporary structure near the galleries, offering new ways to experience space and form — a modern parallel to Queen Caroline’s original landscape experiment.
