Hay’s Wharf and Hay’s Galleria are more than just picturesque riverside spots near London Bridge—they are living chapters of the city’s commercial and architectural history. From their beginnings as a modest 17th-century brew-house, through their heyday as a vital Victorian port complex known as “the Larder of London,” to their modern reinvention as a public space filled with shops, offices, and cultural interest, they chart the transformation of London’s working riverfront. Their evolution mirrors the broader shifts in the capital’s economy: the rise of maritime trade, the industrial boom, post-war decline, and finally, imaginative regeneration.
This blog explores the rich history of Hay’s Wharf and Hay’s Galleria, tracing their transformation from a 17th-century brew-house into one of Victorian London’s busiest ports, and ultimately into the vibrant riverside destination we see today. Beginning in 1651 with Alexander Hay’s lease of a small Thames-side property, the site evolved into a vital trading hub—famously dubbed “the Larder of London”—where up to 80% of the capital’s dry produce once passed through.
Following major redevelopment by Sir William Cubitt in 1856, the wharf led the way in cold storage and commercial logistics, until devastating fires in 1861 and wartime bombing in 1940 reshaped its fortunes. With river trade in decline by the 1970s, the site found new life during the 1980s Docklands regeneration, culminating in the opening of Hay’s Galleria in 1987.
Today, its elegant iron and glass canopy, restored warehouses, and The Navigators sculpture by David Kemp stand as lasting reminders of Southwark’s industrial past and London’s enduring spirit of reinvention.
Early Origins and Development
Hay’s Wharf traces its origins to 1651, when Alexander Hay acquired the lease of a brew-house on the south bank of the Thames, near London Bridge. Initially, Hay’s business focused on brewing and granaries, but he soon expanded into pipe-boring, supplying wooden water pipes to the New River Company and London Bridge Waterworks. By the early 18th century, the wharf had become known as Hay’s Wharf and continued to grow, eventually passing from the Hay family to other prominent London trading families, though the Hay name remained.
19th Century Expansion and Innovation
The major transformation of Hay’s Wharf began in 1856, when Sir William Cubitt constructed an enclosed dock on the site, making it one of the earliest complexes to incorporate fireproofing with brick arches on cast iron beams. The wharf quickly became a hub for international trade, particularly famous for the tea clippers that docked there, bringing tea from India and China. At its peak, up to 80% of London’s dry produce imports passed through Hay’s Wharf, earning it the nickname “the Larder of London”.
Hay’s Wharf also pioneered cold storage in the 1860s, which revolutionised the handling and quality of perishable goods such as butter, bacon, and cheese. By the late 19th and early 20th centuries, an estimated 75% of London’s bacon, butter, cheese, and canned meat was stored at Hay’s Wharf. The company continued to expand, acquiring other wharves and even the well-known Pickfords transport business.
The Great Fire and Rebuilding
Despite its fireproofing, Hay’s Wharf was devastated by the Great Fire of Tooley Street in June 1861. The fire, described in contemporary reports as sending “tall columns of flame” from the roof, destroyed much of the complex.
The James Braidwood Plaque
Who was James Braidwood?
On the Cottons Lane side of 33 Tooley Street, just a stone’s throw from the Thames, stands a remarkable and moving memorial: the plaque dedicated to James Braidwood, the superintendent of the London Fire Brigade. James Braidwood (1800–1861) was a pioneering Scottish firefighter whose vision and determination transformed fire-fighting from a chaotic and reactive practice into a professional public service. As the founder of the world’s first municipal fire brigade and the first superintendent of the London Fire Engine Establishment, Braidwood’s influence shaped the very foundations of modern fire and rescue services across the UK and beyond.
Born in Edinburgh in 1800, Braidwood came from a family of builders, which gave him an early appreciation for the structure and vulnerabilities of buildings—knowledge that would prove invaluable in his later career.
In 1824, at the age of just 24, Braidwood was appointed to organise and lead the newly created Edinburgh Fire Brigade. This was the first municipal fire service in the world, a dramatic shift from the disorganised and largely ineffective patchwork of insurance company brigades and volunteer crews that had previously existed. His appointment represented a new model: that fire protection was a civic responsibility, not merely a commercial service. It was an innovation that would soon be replicated across Britain and abroad.
One of Braidwood’s most enduring contributions was the professionalisation of the fire service. He placed great emphasis on rigorous training, discipline, and physical fitness—qualities that were not standard in earlier firefighting efforts. Rather than recruiting from any willing volunteers, Braidwood chose tradesmen such as slaters, masons, and plumbers—men whose daily work already involved managing physical risk and understanding structural integrity. Their practical skill set made them particularly effective in fire situations.
In 1830, he published On the Construction of Fire-Engines and Apparatus, the first English-language manual on firefighting. This comprehensive text laid out the principles of organisation, training, and equipment that became foundational across the developing profession. It was widely referenced both in Britain and internationally.
Braidwood was not content with reforming the workforce alone—he also modernised the tools and techniques. In Edinburgh, he introduced lightweight fire engines better suited to the city’s steep streets. Later, in London, he worked on developing more powerful pumps, standardised hose fittings, and improved safety gear. Among his most notable innovations was the chain-ladder fire escape, which allowed for faster rescues from upper floors. This earned him a Silver Medal from the Society of Arts and saved countless lives. He also introduced standardised uniforms, which enhanced both the safety and visibility of firefighters and reinforced their professional identity.
In 1833, Braidwood moved to London to become the first superintendent of the London Fire Engine Establishment. This was a landmark achievement: the unification of 17 separate insurance company fire brigades into a single, coordinated force.Under his leadership, the Establishment developed into a highly respected organisation, known for its efficiency, discipline, and courage. Braidwood led from the front, frequently present at major fires, personally directing rescue efforts and inspiring confidence in the men under his command.
Far ahead of his time, Braidwood recognised that fire prevention was as important as extinguishing fires. He championed safer building design, advocated for the use of fireproof materials, and raised public awareness about fire hazards. He personally inspected warehouses, public buildings, and dockyards, offering practical advice and urging reforms long before safety regulations were standardised by law.
His concern for people extended beyond the fireground. Braidwood believed in supporting the wellbeing of his men, working with organisations such as the London City Mission to ensure firefighters and their families were cared for. He was an early advocate for the mental, physical, and spiritual welfare of emergency workers, long before such issues were given serious institutional attention.
On 22 June 1861, James Braidwood was killed in the line of duty during the Great Fire of Tooley Street. He was crushed beneath a collapsing wall while directing rescue efforts. His death, and the sheer scale of the fire, shocked London and prompted urgent calls for change. Four years later, the Metropolitan Fire Brigade was established—an official, state-funded service responsible for protecting all properties, regardless of insurance. It was a direct legacy of Braidwood’s life’s work and ultimate sacrifice. 📚Read more: A Curious Emblem on Princelet Street: What Do the Clasped Hands Mean?
James Braidwood’s methods and principles laid the foundation for the fire services we know today. His focus on training, prevention, public service, and crew welfare remains central to firefighting ethos across the world. He was a man ahead of his time—a visionary who did not simply fight fires, but reshaped how society responds to danger.
The Inscription and Design
The plaque is a work of art in its own right, rich in symbolism and Victorian sentimentality. At its centre, encircled by a laurel wreath, is the inscription:
“To the memory of James Braidwood, superintendent of the London Fire Brigade, who was killed near this spot in the execution of his duty at the great fire on 22nd June 1861.”
Beneath this, on the flat support, is a biblical quotation from Acts 10:22:
“A just man and one that feared God, of good report among all the nation.”
The plaque was erected by the M. or Southwark Division of the Metropolitan Police.
At the base of the memorial is the name of its creator:
- H. Gardiner, New Kent Road
Gardiner, registered as a “monumental mason”, crafted a piece that is far from modest. The imagery is rich and evocative: a fireman’s helmet rests on the left, a hose snakes from a burning building over the laurel wreath and coils at the bottom, a fire engine and axe are also depicted—each element a nod to the tools and perils of the Victorian firefighter’s trade. The plaque was erected on 22 March 1862 and unveiled by the Revd Dr John Cumming of the Church of Scotland.
The Great Tooley Street Fire of 1861
The fire that claimed Braidwood’s life broke out on 22 June 1861 at Cotton’s Wharf, just behind Tooley Street. It quickly became one of the most devastating fires in London since the Great Fire of 1666. The conflagration raged for two weeks, destroyed 11 acres of warehouses, and caused an estimated £2 million in damage—a colossal sum at the time. The fire was so fierce that contemporary reports described “tall columns of flame” and the destruction of “the best warehouses in the kingdom”.
James Braidwood, already a legendary figure in firefighting (having founded the world’s first municipal fire brigade in Edinburgh before leading London’s brigade), was killed when a wall collapsed as he directed efforts to contain the blaze. His death was widely mourned, and his funeral drew huge crowds, including firefighters, police, and members of the public.
The Site and Legacy
The plaque stands as a permanent reminder of Braidwood’s heroism and the risks faced by those who protect the city. Fittingly, Braidwood Street—named in his honour—lies a short distance to the west, though today it is little more than a stub leading to an underground car park.
Lessons learned from the Tooley Street fire led to improved safety standards and the eventual creation of the London Fire Brigade as a professional, city-wide service.
20th Century Decline and Redevelopment
The wharf was rapidly rebuilt and continued to flourish, remaining a key part of London’s trade infrastructure well into the 20th century. The Second World War brought further damage, with Hay’s Wharf suffering heavy bombing in 1940. The post-war years saw a decline in river trade, accelerated by the advent of containerisation in the 1960s, which shifted shipping downstream to deeper ports. The wharf closed to cargo in 1970, by which time the Hay’s Wharf company was primarily a property owner, holding 25 acres of prime Thames dockland.
Hay’s Galleria: Urban Regeneration
Hay’s Galleria: Photos by Hazel Baker
In the 1980s, the area underwent significant redevelopment as part of the London Docklands regeneration. St Martin’s Property Corporation, backed by the State of Kuwait, acquired the site and transformed it into a mixed-use development. The original dock was permanently closed and covered, and the former warehouses were restored to create office accommodation, shops, and restaurants. The centrepiece, Hay’s Galleria, opened in 1987 beneath a sweeping glass and steel roof inspired by Milan’s Galleria Vittorio Emanuele II.
A striking 60-foot (18-metre) kinetic bronze sculpture, The Navigators by David Kemp, was installed at the heart of the Galleria to celebrate its maritime heritage. Today, Hay’s Galleria is a vibrant destination for shopping, dining, and business, while retaining its Grade II listed status and architectural links to its industrial past.
Key Facts and Figures
Fact | Detail |
Founded | 1651 (lease by Alexander Hay) |
Major Expansion | 1856 (enclosed dock by Sir William Cubitt) |
Nickname | “The Larder of London” |
Trade Peak | 80% of London’s dry produce imports; 75% of bacon, butter, cheese, and canned meat |
Fire and Rebuild | Destroyed in 1861 Tooley Street fire; rebuilt soon after |
WWII Damage | Badly bombed in 1940 |
Cargo Closure | 1970 |
Redevelopment | 1980s; Galleria opened 1987 |
Landmark Sculpture | The Navigators by David Kemp, 60 ft (18 m) tall, unveiled 1987 |
Hay’s Wharf and Hay’s Galleria offer a compelling lens through which to view London’s evolving relationship with the Thames. Once a hive of maritime trade and industrial logistics, this stretch of the riverside has adapted to changing times with resilience and ingenuity. The wharf that once fed the capital with tea, spices, cheese and bacon is now a place of leisure, commerce and community—a living example of successful urban regeneration.
Yet, amid the cafés and glass-fronted offices, echoes of its past remain. The iron columns, warehouse façades, and The Navigators sculpture all serve as reminders of the people who once worked these docks, the global networks they sustained, and the fires and bombings they endured. As such, Hay’s Galleria is more than just a picturesque shopping arcade—it is a celebration of London’s industrious spirit and its ability to honour history while embracing the future.
Whether you are walking its arcades, pausing by the river, or simply passing through, take a moment to appreciate the layers of history embedded in its walls. Hay’s Wharf may no longer be the “Larder of London,” but it continues to nourish the city in its own unique way.
