Fleet Street is far more than just a former publishing hub. It’s a place where centuries of intrigue, invention, and inky fingers meet. Join us as we take a wander through one of London’s most fascinating historic streets. 📚Read more: Murder, Myth & Media: A Walk Down To Fleet Street
Rise of the 'Street of Shame'
The ‘Street of Shame’ was a name given to Fleet Street when it was the home of Britain’s newspaper publishers. The search for an objective journalistic truth often took second place to the desire to push scandal and gossip to a tabloid-reading audience who lapped it up. The publishers have long since left, but Fleet Street still has plenty to delight a visitor, both in stories to tell and places to see.
Ye Old Cheshire Cheese
Ye Olde Cheschire Cheese, Photos by Hazel Baker
In a street of many pubs, one of the highlights is Ye Old Cheshire Cheese. There has been a pub on this site since 1538. The original pub was burned down in the Great Fire, but was rebuilt in 1667 to the pub you see today. It prides itself on having been operating through the reigns of 16 kings and queens – a board on the front of the pub attests to this. It recently had to update its list to add Charles III.
Architectural Richness
Inside it is a warren of small rooms, panelled in dark wood, a veritable labyrinth. Follow the stairs down for what seems like an age to the lowest level bar. You are now in a vaulted cellar which is thought to have formed part of a nearby Carmelite monastery, better known as the Whitefriars, after the white robe the monks would wear. The monastery is long gone, wiped out during Henry VIII’s dissolution, but if you close your eyes in the cool cellar you could imagine the monks busily working away on their manuscripts, lit by candlelight. The only hint of cheese in the pub other than the name is the cheeseboard on the desert menu.
Exploring St Bride’s Church
On the other side of Fleet Street is the Grade I listed church, St Bride’s. Built by Sir Christopher Wren after the Great Fire, its spire is world-famous. The church is still the spiritual home of British journalists. If you visit, and it is open most days, you will see plaques to luminaries of the printed press dotted around the pews, such as Lord Beaverbrook, late proprietor of the Express newspapers.
Quirky Connection
The spire is thought to have ‘inspired’ the tiered wedding cake that is still so popular today. A local baker William Rich is said to have started the trend, creating a tiered cake for his or his daughter’s wedding, depending on what source you read. Whichever, the style of cake took off, and as they say, the rest is history. How appropriate that a church with such a name should be associated with wedding cakes? Well, no, ‘Bride’ is a diminutive of Bridget, so nothing to do with nuptials, just a happy coincidence.
St Bride’s is an active parish church, and regularly hosts weddings. In recent years probably the most famous of the blushing brides was the Texan supermodel and actress Jerry Hall, when she married 84-year-old billionaire media mogul Rupert Murdoch here in 2016. Sadly that marriage did not last. But I hope they had a spectacular cake befitting the church where the wedding took place!
Unveiling London's Oldest Pubs
Fleet Street’s contributions to London’s pub scene are equally noteworthy. Beyond Ye Old Cheshire Cheese, the area is dotted with historic pubs that offer a peek into the city’s social history. These establishments provide a sense of continuity, preserving traditions that have endured for centuries.
- Ye Olde Mitre – Nestled in nearby Ely Place, it dates back to 1546 and offers a cosy atmosphere.
- The Old Bell Tavern – Another Wren creation, it was built for masons working on St Bride’s Church.
- The Punch Tavern – Named after the famous Punch magazine, it continues to serve patrons with a side of literary history.
Whether you’re a history buff or a casual drinker, these iconic establishments are worth a visit. Experience the Fleet Street yourself and join me on Fleet Street Walk to discover the streets echo with whispers of the past!
