Why I Stand Up for Canary Wharf: Confessions of a London Walke
Canary Wharf has often faced criticism for lacking soul – dismissed as merely a forest of glass towers and financial bustle. But my experience, leading walks here for visiting students, tells a different, richer story. I remember wandering these docks when they were eerily deserted, with cranes looming like War of the Worlds tripods – a somber, uneasy place. Today, Canary Wharf couldn’t be more different: it’s vibrant, welcoming, and constantly evolving.
From Wasteland to Waterfront Wonder
Decades ago, Canary Wharf was an abandoned reminder of London’s industrial past. Now, it’s a buzzing waterfront full of art, landscaped parks, and lively entertainment. Among its skyscrapers, you’ll discover treasures – cleverly restored historic warehouses, the impressive London Museum Docklands in an old wharf, and breath-taking views over the river to the City of London.
Landmarks and Artistry: Sculptures Old and New
Canary Wharf is much more than business. The iconic 1 Canada Square dominates the horizon with its pyramid roof, but beneath these towers lie gems: hidden warehouses, public squares, and artworks.
Old Flo: Draped Seated Woman
One highlight for walkers is Henry Moore’s bronze masterpiece, Draped Seated Woman (affectionately known as Old Flo). Created in the late 1950s, Old Flo was originally installed on the Stifford Estate in Stepney, watching over the East End for decades. After years away, including a sojourn in Yorkshire Sculpture Park, Old Flo returned to London and now has pride of place in Cabot Square, part of Canary Wharf’s vibrant public art collection. Her monumental form and serene presence not only reconnect the new Canary Wharf with the history of East London, but also embody the area’s commitment to making great art accessible to all.
There’s more: Giles Penny’s Two Men on a Bench (1995), a large bronze in the classical figurative tradition at Wren Landing, brings contemplative air and playful spirit to the Wharf. Penny’s simplified surfaces and contours give the sculpture monumental presence and narrative sculptural language. The Canary Wharf Group bought this, and Man with Arms Open, after exhibiting them as part of the Millennium show, The Shape of the Century, in 1999.
The area’s network of tunnels isn’t just practical; it’s also artistic, lined with murals and creative installations. Each walk with students reveals yet another surprise: playful sculptures to pop-up art exhibits—you’re never far from creativity in Canary Wharf.
HSBC’s Move: A New Chapter for Canary Wharf
The changing face of Canary Wharf is also reflected in its corporate residents. Recently, HSBC, long synonymous with the area, announced a move back to the City of London, downsizing its global headquarters and aiming to cut 40% of its office footprint. The new City HQ will be far smaller than its current presence at 8 Canada Square – a nod to flexible working and post-pandemic realities.
Yet, this isn’t a farewell. HSBC has signed a 15-year lease for more space at 40 Bank Street in Canary Wharf, keeping a significant stake in the Docklands as it balances its move. Even as large firms adapt and change, Canary Wharf remains relevant – a commercial centre that’s diverse, resilient and creative.
More Than Money: Layers of Life Beneath the Skyscrapers
Too often, critics ignore what makes Canary Wharf unique. Its riverside open space, cultural heart in museum and warehouses, wealth of art, and stunning views across to the City – these all create an area teeming with life, far from soulless.
So next time someone dismisses Canary Wharf, I urge them to take a walk – through its tunnels of murals, past historic wharfs, beneath towering skyscrapers, and beside contemplative figures like the Seated Man, Giles Penny’s Two Men on a Bench, and especially Old Flo. The new, the old, and even the corporate churn are all part of a living, ever-changing London. There’s spirit here: you just have to step inside and let yourself see it.
