Introduction
Mention “St Pancras” and most people think of the international railway station in central London. But before fast trains and Victorian grandeur, the name belonged to a saint, with two now-lost churches in the wider area lending their name to the station.
Today, churches dedicated to St Pancras are quite rare in England, with only around ten still standing. Others have vanished entirely, including those once found near King’s Cross, where burial grounds and lost churches connected to the saint once stood, a history touched on in Forgotten Graves and Lost Landmarks of St Pancras.
In the City of London, however, traces of one former church remain, remembered today through a quiet garden and a few unusual benches. So who was St Pancras, and what became of his church?
Who Was St Pancras?
St Pancras, also known as Pancrazio, was an early Christian martyr who died in 303 AD at the age of just 14.
He was born in what is now Turkey to Roman parents. Orphaned by the age of nine, he moved to Rome with his uncle. Both converted to Christianity at a time when it was illegal and dangerous to do so under Emperor Diocletian’s rule. Despite threats and promises of wealth and power, Pancras refused to worship Roman gods. For this, he was beheaded. Fragments of his skull are still kept in a reliquary in the Basilica of San Pancrazio in Rome.
In 595 AD, St Augustine brought relics of Pancras to England and dedicated his first church in Canterbury to him. The saint’s influence can still be seen in church architecture today, most notably in the striking St Pancras New Church on Euston Road, with its distinctive Greek Revival design. The church even hosted a royal wedding in the 1990, a lesser-known event captured in St Pancras Royal Wedding.
A Lost Church in the City
Although there is no longer a church dedicated to St Pancras in the City of London, its memory survives in a small but intriguing garden.
Head to Pancras Lane, just off Queen Victoria Street, and you will find a peaceful spot with several artistic benches. This was once the churchyard of St Pancras, Soper Lane, a church built around 1098. The name Soper Lane referred to the road that ran through the parish and is now part of Queen Street.
Like many others, the church was destroyed in the Great Fire of London in 1666 and was not rebuilt. This was likely due to the density of churches in the surrounding area. Another nearby church, St Benet Sherehog, just 50 yards away, suffered the same fate and was also left in ruins.
After the fire, the parish of St Pancras merged with St Mary-le-Bow. Remarkably, the name of the parish remained in use well into the 19th century. A parish boundary marker from 1886 still survives in Well Court, just across Queen Street.
Burials continued in the churchyard until 1853, after which the ground was deconsecrated and turned into a small public garden. During the Second World War, many buildings around the site were destroyed. Excavations in the 1960s uncovered burials and the outline of the original church, now lying beneath the ground. The site is now protected as a Scheduled Ancient Monument.
A Garden Full of Character
Years later, the City of London Corporation held a design competition to reimagine the space. It was won by StudioWeave, who re-landscaped the garden and collaborated with artists from the City & Guilds of London Art School to create eight extraordinary benches.
These benches resemble medieval church pews and reflect the spirit of historic church carvings. Each was designed by a different artist, allowing for creativity, humour and even a touch of mischief. The carvings nod to medieval architecture, London landmarks and even political figures.
Here are a few highlights:
Devils and a Cauldron
Devils are shown boiling sinners in a cauldron within the walls of a city. The Gherkin and the London Eye appear in the background. Look closely and you might spot someone who resembles Margaret Thatcher. Could the others be former politicians too?
A Walled City
This intricate scene shows a medieval walled city, possibly a vision of old London. The Gherkin and the London Eye once again rise in the distance, connecting past and present.
The Sinister Cat
Adam and Eve
Goat and Dragon
A mountain goat plays a harp, possibly representing the Devil, who is often shown as a goat. Next to it is a dragon, the symbol of the City of London. An unexpected pairing, but a fascinating one.
What Lies Ahead
Sadly, some of the original carvings have been lost or damaged over time. A few years ago, there were plans to redevelop the garden. These included replacing the benches, adding a gated fence to prevent anti-social behaviour, and removing one of the trees to let in more light. The surviving carved panels were to be repositioned along the edges of the garden, similar to how old gravestones are sometimes displayed.
As of now, these changes have not been implemented. So if you would like to see the garden in its current playful and artistic form, it is best to visit sooner rather than later.
The City of London is full of secret gardens and secret spaces, each with stories to tell. If you enjoy uncovering the unexpected, join us for our Secret Spaces in the City walk and explore more of these little-known treasures.
You might also enjoy:
📚Read more:
- St Pancras New Church: a Bit of Athens in London
- St. Pancras Station: A Timeless Jewel in the Heart of London
- 🎧 Episode 105 – St Pancras Station
Discover the fascinating history of the international station and how it connects to the saint and churches of the same name.
