Nestled in the heart of Covent Garden, Neal’s Yard is now a vibrant, health-conscious sanctuary—but it hasn’t always been so. Back in the 1970s, it was little more than a derelict, rat-ridden alleyway.
That all changed when a visionary named Nicholas Saunders reimagined the space as a centre for alternative living. This is the story of how one eccentric dreamer transformed a forgotten corner of London into a beloved cultural landmark.
Transformation of Neal’s Yard
Have you ever wandered into Neal’s Yard? Tucked away in the hustle and bustle of Covent Garden is a little slice of magic that feels more like a secret garden than a London courtyard. If you’ve been, you’ll know exactly what I mean.
Bright, sun-drenched facades in cheerful hues, vines spilling down the walls, and a constant hum of happy chatter from cafés like 26 Grains. There’s cheese from Neal’s Yard Dairy, pastries from St John’s Bakery, and of course, the famous Neal’s Yard Remedies.
Honestly, it’s like a pocket of Barcelona crashed into London and brought the best vibes with it. But what if I told you it wasn’t always this way?
The Vision and Legacy of Nicholas Saunders
Back in the 1970s, Neal’s Yard was… well, let’s just say it wasn’t somewhere you’d go for a turmeric latte. It was dark, damp, stinky, and riddled with rats. Derelict warehouses stood empty, and the only regulars were tramps using the place as a toilet. (Yep. Really.)
Nicholas Saunders, this wonderfully eccentric and wildly idealistic man bought a banana-ripening warehouse in the Yard in 1974 for £7,000—thanks to an inheritance from his great-aunt. He wasn’t your typical entrepreneur. He didn’t care about making money. What drove him was the dream of creating a space where people could live, shop, and work differently.
You see, Nicholas had this thing for “alternative” living. He literally wrote the book on it—two, actually: Alternative London and Alternative England and Wales. He envisioned Neal’s Yard as a hub for alternative goods and ideas, a place that would offer something radically different from the high street.
Alternative Living and Ethical Business
It all started with whole foods. In 1976, he launched a shop in his warehouse that sold natural, healthy goods—scooped straight from sacks on the floor by workers chatting away in friendly trios. He even rigged up an ingenious pulley system where workers could hoist sacks to the upper floors by jumping off ledges. (One accident in 10,000 jumps—“and that was when Tara was showing off.”)
From there, things snowballed. He backed friends in launching what would become some of London’s most beloved brands: Neal’s Yard Dairy (with Randolph Hodgson), Monmouth Coffee (with Anita Le Roy), and Neal’s Yard Remedies (with Romy Fraser). He helped them set up, then handed the reins over—no strings attached. Just vibes, passion, and belief in the mission. Fun fact: Hodgson and Le Roy later married—and served coffee ice cream at their wedding.
Creativity and Innovation
Nicholas was also an inventor of sorts. He found creative solutions to every problem—like a special cupboard for warming up 600lb drums of honey, so it could be poured into jars. His pricing strategy? Completely unique.
He didn’t mark things up by percentage—he charged based on the effort it took to package something. Brazil nuts? Bargain. Honey? A bit pricier. And he had this beautiful philosophy about work—rooted in his time with the Gurdjieff Group. He believed work should be fulfilling, challenging, and ever-changing. That’s what he built in Neal’s Yard. Not just a business, but a whole new way of doing things
In true dramatic fashion, just as the first shop was about to open in 1977, disaster struck. His girlfriend accidentally burned down their flat—candles, papier-mâché, meditation… you can imagine the rest. But Nicholas? He was thrilled. It meant he could leave the past behind and move into the warehouse above his brand new shop. A fresh start. The rest, as they say, is history.
A Lasting, Yet Overlooked, Impact
His businesses bloomed. His ideals seeded a legacy that still thrives today. Borough Market? That was inspired by what Nicholas began here. Yet somehow, despite all this, most people have never even heard of him. He sadly died in a car accident in South Africa whilst researching the use of psychoactive drugs in rituals around the world.
An eccentric to the end. So next time you’re sipping on flat whites or nibbling vegan brownies in the Yard, take a moment, look around. And raise a quiet toast to Nicholas Saunders—the quirky, generous soul who turned a stinky alleyway into a beacon of community and creativity.
Join me on the Tale of Two Slums in St. Giles Walk and we’ll explore how visionaries, eccentrics, and idealists helped reshape streets, just like Nicholas Saunders did in Neal’s Yard.
Book your spot now and step into London’s lesser-known, but endlessly fascinating, past!
